Saturday, 7/13, I think:) Bon Giourno from Courmayer, Italy, a town tucked into the mountains, surrounded by beautiful scenes of jagged peaks, some snow capped and some green with trees growing in the ragged areas. I can heat the local church bells ringing. We were out of touch yesterday, as we hiked up and over two passes into a small area called Le Chapeau, where, it was true, we only saw other hikers and cows. The trail became a little more crowded that day, and the groups that we passed (or passed us) all landed in the same Aubergine that night (something between a hostel and a hotel... we had our own room with a shower, but no toilette). Anyway, when we ended our trip, we had a huge decision to make, did we want a hot shower or a cold beer? We opted for the hot shower, then the cold beer, which never tasted soooo good. The atmosphere was really neat, as everyone there had just completed 11 miles of difficult terrain. We saw people walking very gingerly, and enjoying the time off their feet. Dinner found us all in one room, at long family style tables. There were no food choices, only what was served... a vegetable soup, potatoes, and goat cheeks (very tender), followed by cheese! And dessert. Most of the meals we have had so far have been like this: soup, always potatoes, some meat, the local cheese, and a tarter of some sort for dessert. We woke up to sunny skies and continued our trip, another 8 miles. At the top of the pass, we crossed into Italy. Today we are hiking 6 miles, all upwards, to a Refugio which will be dormitory style sleeping. We packed our packs with everything needed for two days. We hear there is a change in the weather coming, so have to bring rain gear too. Oceans of love, Katie & John