We did it!

Argentiere to La Flegere, and back to Chamonix: Today's hike would bring us full circle, around the Mont Blanc range of mountains. We trekked 100 miles (more than 300,000 steps)over rocks, tree roots and mud, in sunshine, rain, and wind. We saw multiple glaciers and learned of their progression over time. We had many steep ascents & descents, we crossed rushing rivers, walked through towns, over passes and borders into three countries. We saw friendly animals, and met interesting people. The scenery was majestic, rugged, and inspiring. Our guides were incredibly knowledgeable and friendly and our hiking mates were kind, amusing, and very interesting people. Below is some of our favorite pictures, followed by the adventure of the last day:

The last day we took a train up to the Mer de Glace and hiked about 4 miles over to the middle station of the cable car that takes people to L'Aguille Midi. We took the cable car to the top. At 12,602 feet, it has amazing views of Mont Blanc and it's surrounding peaks. The main attraction at the top of L'Aguille Midi is a glass box that you can go enter to view the mountain range from all sides. It is a bit scary! We had our last dinner together tonight at a restaurant in Chamonix. Our guides gave us diplomas and recapped the trip. What an amazing experience!

Oceans of love! Katie & John

Day 10

Forclaz to Argentiere The skies cleared this morning and we left our tiny town in Switzerland, ready to cross back into France. Today's hike was up for the first half of the day. We started out in the forest above Forclaz and continued on a path that was sure to bring spectacular views. This first picture, looking back where we started that morning, shows another range of mountains in the distances across the valley in Switzerland, the grassy spot in the foreground is Col de Forclaz (Forclaz Pass). We asked our guides about these crosses that we have been seeing along the way. Super high in the mountains, usually near a refuge (mountain hut) we will see a huge cross. They guides said that when people are so far from a town, they don't go to church very often, so the priest will travel to a refuge a few times during the summer to hold mass. More uphill climbing brought us the to the Swiss/French border and stunning scenery. The camera just doesn't do it justice, but I'll insert a pic here just because I have to try! John is such an excellent hiking partner. He is so strong and confident, there is no question that he will make it to the top of every pass. He helps me get my pack ready, remembers my poles for me, always keeps an eye out to make sure I am in the group... He is as steady and strong as the mountains we are climbing. You can imagine there is lots of time to think along the trails each day. (We haven't had a day with less than 25,000 steps). It is quite meditative. When the trail is hard, and I am breathing really hard, and we are high in the mountains, I know that giving up is not an option (though we have all wished that we had bat suits or paragliders to get us down the mountain sometimes. Being present in the awesomeness of the French/Italian/Swiss Alps is humbling and inspiring. Your mind really can't be anywhere but on the trail. The steps are technical, usually requiring all of your concentration. When you stop to look up, you are surrounded by history and beauty and realize that you will most likely never be here again. What a gift! We hope you are all well. Tomorrow's hike brings us full circle, back to Chamonix! Oceans of love, Katie & John

Day 9

Champex-Lac to Col de Forclaz, Switzerland (a little town at the pass above the Rhone Valley in Martigny) “Embrace the mud” was the motto for the day. We started late (10 am) to try and avoid the downpour. Today’s hike was classified as pretty easy, with one really hard section of about 2200 feet of gain in less than two miles. Our guides pointed their hands up vertically, then folded them backwards to describe how steep it was. Some of the steps were so big, we were literally climbing! Eventually, we were above the clouds. We had lunch at a refuge and listened to the cowbells jingle. Our town tonight has one hotel and one store. It is at the very top of the pass. We have seen many bicyclists meet up with support cars here. We also continue to run into fellow hikers that we have met previously. Two women, both from the US, are some of our favorties. They are doing the hike on their own, and as the towns are so small, we always end up seeing them at the end of the day. Another lovely dinner, and we are ready to rest for tomorrow brings our last really hard day of hiking. Lots of cows today! Oceans of love, Katie & John Our friends, Whiskey Sally & Dora

Blog day 8 The road from La Fouly to Champex Lac (Lake) was pretty easy compared to everything else we have done so far. The weather was a bit rainy with low clouds, felt like home. We walked through the forest, then through charming Swiss villages, until it was time for lunch. Typically, Isabel our driver, has a buffet spread out for us to pack a lunch before we leave on our trek, but today, they told us that the stores were closed early, and she couldn’t find everything she needed, so we would figure out something else for lunch. We could hear our guides on the radio with Isabel all morning, but they just smiled and kept on walking, until we saw the van, pulled off on the side of the road, with the hazard sign out. Isabel told us the van had broken down and we would wait with her for another van to come. She had such a cute smile on her face as she said this, I was thinking not for the first time, how laid back these French people are… no food, no van, and yet here is Isabel smiling. She said we should go around the back of this old chalet, so as not to be on the road with the crazy Swiss drivers. And there we found a beautiful lunch set out for us, complete with wine and tea. They had all been tricking us, and of course, John and I fell for it! It was so convincing, John said he was still waiting for another van to come pick her up! 8-9 miles of hiking brought us to the village of Champex Lac, a quiet Swiss village on a pretty lake. Unfortunately, the weather was quite rainy, so we took the opportunity to wash some laundry and walk through the mostly shuttered town. We had another fabulous dinner, shared with 2 of our hiking companions and a nice night listening to the rain fall. Oceans of love, Katie and John

Day 7, stormy!

We awoke in the Bonatti hut, after a bit of sleep (lots of snoring in our dorm), had a quick breakfast and set off down to the valley before hiking another pass. It was quite stormy and we were meeting our driver Isabel in the valley to make our lunches. It was pouring! Many of us chose to spend the day with Isabel, helping her to shop and with baggage while our bravest hikers (John, of course) continued on. The day brought huge storms, 2500 feet up, 3830 feet down, over 10 miles. They crossed into Switzerland on foot, while the rest of us crossed in the warmth of Isabel's van. For the first time, we had a chance to play cards, get a nice hot shower, and rest a bit before the others arrived. Dinner at our hotel in La Fouly, Switzerland was Raclette! They take a massive hunk of cheese and heat it up, then shave slices off and bring it to you. You eat it with a variety of charcuterie, cabbage, corn, potatoes(of course), shaved carrots... They serve you one piece of cheese at a time, then come back for more until you are full. Our guides bested all of us, having at least 6 servings! Ham and cheese... how can you go wrong? BTW, on our stroll thought town, we came across of group of people who were all mentally disabled, heading to their camp. Their group included two men with DS, warmed my heart to see that everyone gets to explore and enjoy this majestic part of the world! This morning, Monday? we continue on what should be an easy day, 10 miles 1378 feet up, 1854 down to the town of Champex. Oceans of love! Katie & John

Day 6 hiking

Refugio Bonatti, What a very cool place, high in the Italian Alps... I know that 8 miles doesn't sound like very much, but oh is it ever hard. There was no elevation loss today, only 3000 feet gain. We meet each morning for breakfast prepared by whatever place we are starting, refill our water bottles (we fill 2 1/2 liters and have to refill on the trails), get our packs ready and off we go. Danielle, our guide says "oh, today is a little up and a little down." In her sweet French accent. What she really means is, we will completely exert ourselves for the next 6-8 hours. :). It is getting a little easier as we are getting stronger by the day. It certainly feels like an accomplishment, one that I might appreciate more when it is completed. Back to hiking... We left our hotel in Courmayer, hot hot day, hiked about a mile to the trail head, then continued up to some super cool views looking back at the town. We were passed by some ultra runners, practicing for the Ultra TMB next week. Makes you feel a little lame, as they are going to run all 100 miles, in one day! We let them pass and continued climbing at our own pace. After cookies and chocolate, our usual mid-morning snack provided by the guides, we continued along the grand balcony, the route that traverses the mountain above the tree line. We could see the clouds approaching, and had a quick lunch before continuing on, a little more up, and a little more down, ending with another up:). We have passed many huts or refuges along our way, having small cafés and beds for hikers to sleep in, but Refugio Bonatti is by far the largest and nicest of them all. We arrived with the rain to find hikers from all over the world, some single, some in groups like ours, and started sharing stories. After showers and finding our dorm (which we all shared). We rented a towel for 3 euro, and stood in line for the showers which required a token for hot water. As the water on the WOMEN'S side was cold, a few of us decided to use the Men's side (the showers were completely enclosed, so no one could see us!), but the Italian men in the line behind us were outraged, yelling "woman, woman!". Tee hee hee, we got hot showers too! We took our cold beer outside and watched the dramatic show of clouds and storms pass across the peaks on the other side of the valley. We met at 7 for our dinner--amazing what great food they can provide, so far from any towns. We were to leave early the next day, on the trail by 7:30 in order to beat the weather.

Saturday, 7/13, I think:) Bon Giourno from Courmayer, Italy, a town tucked into the mountains, surrounded by beautiful scenes of jagged peaks, some snow capped and some green with trees growing in the ragged areas. I can heat the local church bells ringing. We were out of touch yesterday, as we hiked up and over two passes into a small area called Le Chapeau, where, it was true, we only saw other hikers and cows. The trail became a little more crowded that day, and the groups that we passed (or passed us) all landed in the same Aubergine that night (something between a hostel and a hotel... we had our own room with a shower, but no toilette). Anyway, when we ended our trip, we had a huge decision to make, did we want a hot shower or a cold beer? We opted for the hot shower, then the cold beer, which never tasted soooo good. The atmosphere was really neat, as everyone there had just completed 11 miles of difficult terrain. We saw people walking very gingerly, and enjoying the time off their feet. Dinner found us all in one room, at long family style tables. There were no food choices, only what was served... a vegetable soup, potatoes, and goat cheeks (very tender), followed by cheese! And dessert. Most of the meals we have had so far have been like this: soup, always potatoes, some meat, the local cheese, and a tarter of some sort for dessert. We woke up to sunny skies and continued our trip, another 8 miles. At the top of the pass, we crossed into Italy. Today we are hiking 6 miles, all upwards, to a Refugio which will be dormitory style sleeping. We packed our packs with everything needed for two days. We hear there is a change in the weather coming, so have to bring rain gear too. Oceans of love, Katie & John